The Body Cast

Body Casting

First off We've Got our model positioned on the custom built platform, with his legs the proper distance apart, and slightly bent at the knees. We will be using the "Plastic Wrap" technique mentioned in the introduction. Start from the bottom and work your way up.

Be Sure to Wrap the plastic firmly around the model, but not so tight that it will cut off the circulation.

Ok all finished, now it's officially too late to go to the bathroom. Now with one of them fat black markers, or with narrow masking tape, make a divider line which evenly divides the front and back halves. Now begin to mix the first batch of Ultra-Cal 30. I have already pre-cut MORE than enough various sized Burlap strips. When I mix Ultra-Cal I always add the stone to the water while continuously mixing, this helps to avoid lumps. You'll want the consistency to be like a thick Chocolate Shake,....Mmmmm!

I find it easiest if you start on the back half first and then do the front second. Begin by dipping a large length strip in the Ultra-Cal. Fold it in half and, ring out the excess plaster by either dragging the strip against the lip of the plaster bucket, or by running it between your fingers. (don't wring out too much, it will weaken your cast) Starting at the bottom, lay the folded strip along the backside of the divider line and rub upwards.

Be sure to rub out any air pockets that may form under the strips. It will help the strips stay in place ensuring a better impression of your model, as well as a stronger mold. Once the outer edge is in place add an identical strip to the inner side of the same leg. Now with a wider strip connect the two edges across the back. Try to keep the edges on the back half as clean and straight as possible, never going past the half way mark, it will pay off later.

Try to work your way up the legs and back as evenly and as quickly as possible. When working around the groin and armpits use smaller strips for a good fit. I also like to put the layers on extra heavy in these areas it will help to strengthen the casting. Ultra-Cal 30 has a self curing agent, which means it can set up pretty quick, so at first it may be best to mix small amounts until you can adapt. I also advise that you use some type of large rubber mixing bowl. (with rubber bowls, when the stone hardens you just pop it out and the bowl is clean and ready for the next mix) You could also go the cheap-ass method, like I did and use 5-gallon buckets. (those you just throw away)

Note the position of the television. (I made him watch Guyver Episodes the whole time) Here I have completed the back half of the cast, and added two wooden support strips. (which should be measured and cut before you begin) The supports are attached by simply taping them to the cast with more strips. By using Ultra-Cal and Burlap method the strength of the cast is greatly improved, making the supports almost unnecessary.

Now with the backside set, you can begin to work on the front half. First grab a jar of Vaseline and THOROUGHLY lube about a 3 inch wide strip all around the edge of the back half. You must cover every spot, if you do not your model will not be happy. Around this time you must also be aware of how much pushing and pulling you do on your model. They may begin to have difficulty keeping their balance.

When you apply the front side, you once again start from the bottom and work your way up rubbing out any air pockets. This time instead of folding the first layers, simply lay the first layer overlapping the back half of the cast by about an inch. (which is why you must put on a HEALTHY layer of Vaseline first to prevent the two halves from becoming one, thus creating a very unpredictable and frantic model)

Continue upwards until the front half is completed, always paying close attention to the amount of overlapping. You may also want to add supports to the front half at this time. (I opted for only one support rod on this side, which connects across the wrists and stomach area) Now the casting is complete, let the stone set up if it has not already done so.

Usually at this time I will go around the edges with a large Flat head screwdriver, working it under the edge to begin freeing it from the back half. (this is when you will discover if you put on enough Vaseline)

Here is a view of the front half with the support attached across the abdomen area. Notice that the head, hands and feet are not included. These will be done individually at a later date, and then can be fiber-glassed on to the main body piece.

Now the cast is completely dried, and I have freed the overlapping edges of the front half from the back. Now have the model begin to take deep breaths, expanding his chest while you gently pull away. The front half should be taken off first, so have someone hold the back in position until the front is free and clear. Then the model should be able to simply step out of the back half.

Here are the two halves of the cast, I've done better but I think with a little bit of patch work these will do just fine.